Camino Day 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri 22km

The second day of the Camino was nowhere near as dramatic as the first day.

The lights in the dorm at the monastery in Roncesvalles went on at 6am without warning. Four Hospitaleros walked in, in a row, one after the other. They were chanting and singing and wishing the pilgrims a good morning in a variety of languages.

Apart from the usual suspect languages, I picked up the Polish “dzien dowry”. I believe that means “G’Day”, Hello or Hi.

Breakfast at 7am was a cup of tea or coffee, half a glass of orange juice and one piece of toast. That was not worth the trouble, the cost or the wait. I should have had breakfast on the road. Oh well…

I was on my way by 8am, one of last pilgrims leaving the albergue.

The road sign below may look familiar to those of you who have seen the movie “The Way”. The sign is just outside the monastery in Roncesvalles as you are leaving the place to continue your Camino.

By the way, 790km on the sign above is the road distance. The walking distance from here is around 760km.

Now the Camino took me through some pretty villages. Note the open water channel on the road to the right. Good Mrs and I saw something similar in Freiburg, Germany.

A cute little house, set back from the main street.

Glorious lush landscapes.

A rainbow. It is a sign!!!

This could have been a fire trail in Australia.

Of course, the Camino attracts oddballs as well. Like this woman in the middle who was pulling a piece of luggage on wheels along the Camino. As you do.

Note that we are now on the other side of the Pyrenees. Did this lady pull that luggage all the way from St Jean Pied de Port across the mountains?

A close up…

I arrived in Zubiri at 2pm and took myself to a brand new albergue. This was after an entrepreneurial bloke handed out pamphlets to pilgrims on the Camino not far from Zubiri.

I didn’t have to wait for too long before 2 Koreans I had seen on the trail arrived.

Fiona and Daina arrived soon thereafter. You may recall Fiona as the lady I walked with parts of yesterday. And Daina who stayed in the same hostel and room as me in St Jean Pied de Port.

The Camino community is small. Or is it perhaps that we are all walking the same way and direction the same day perhaps. Using the same guidebook? Or accepting the same pamphlet from the same guy?

The albergue provided all pilgrims with a cold welcome beer. A much appreciated touch.

Later, many peregrinos including me were sitting outside at the back of the albergue. Some were writing in journals or diaries. Others were communicating with home wherever in the world home is. Yet others were exchanging email addresses and photos with each other.

I feel lazy and relaxed, I don’t want to go out anywhere. The albergue included breakfast in its bed price with dinner as an extra. Spaghetti Bolognese for dinner is 6€. That works.

I am already getting tired of 3 course meals. One meal, served at a reasonable hour, is more to my liking. And fries, frites de maison in french, patatas fritas in spanish. They seem to serve it with everything. Standard pilgrim meals as well as other meals.

As an Australian, you want much more food variety than that. Food may be an issue on the Camino…


A funny discussion about shortened expressions followed.

The Americans did not know what the expression Mod Cons meant (modern conveniences 🙂 ). When I told them that I ordered a Spag Bol (spaghetti Bolognese 🙂 ) for dinner, I only received blank looks.

Interesting. I know that you shorten words and expressions as much as you can in Australia, but… Brekkie anyone? (That’s short for breakfast…)


Dinner arrived and it was quantity. Not sure about quality. The Bol part tasted and looked like the contents of a can. Still, the hungry pilgrims tucked in with “bon appetite”.

You could have a glass of wine to your dinner for an extra 3 Euros. Rose wine only. There was no other wine available. Hmmm… as they say, interesting.

I had a glass of their house rose wine and it was awful.

That will do for today.

47km walked, 738km left to walk after Day 2

One thought on “Camino Day 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri 22km

  1. Oh, we might have stayed in this same albergue. For much the same reasons. The one we stayed in was called Albergue Suseia. The free welcoming beer as we took our shoes off was much appreciated. I had the spag bol too and it was good. But unlike you, we had also stayed a night at Espinal, just 8 km from Roncesvalkes, in an absolutely gorgeous albergue, as we were still pretty shattered from the experience of crossing the Pyrenees in a gale.

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