Camino Day 3: Zubiri to Larrasoaña 6km

The 3rd day of the Camino started with breakfast around 7am. It was a “help yourself” affair as no hospitalero was in sight.

Lesson learned here. Ask for a stamp for your Credential de Peregrino as you check in. I didn’t and now there is nobody around. Not that the stamp matters apart from curiosity value.

There were 6 pilgrims sleeping in my room overnight. 3 were elderly Dutch women and all 3 of them were snoring, one a lot more than the others. I was thankful that I brought earplugs. First use of them but likely not the last.

There was no need to rush as my target for today was Larrasoaña which is only about 5.5km away from Zubiri.

Why am I only walking such a short distance today? Because my timetable got stuffed up when I did not stay that first night in Orisson.

I had booked two nights in Pamplona, Friday night and Saturday night. Walking from Zubiri to Pamplona is roughly the same as yesterday’s distance, around 22km. So that would not have been a problem.

Anyway, I had time and took a lot of photos instead.

Hostel Susefa in Ziburi appears to be in a converted townhouse. The adjacent townhouses all seemed residential.

I bought myself a couple of bananas and relaxed here at Ziburi Plaza Mayor. Yep, the “enormous” square was actually called so.

A selfie in the morning.

The view of the bridge over Rio Arga from where I sat at Plaza Mayor in Ziburi.

I left Ziburi around 9.20am and started walking. Up, of course, with a nice view of town.

Some Camino signage along the way.

Again, the Camino is serious business. I assume that there is too much money involved. Which is perhaps not a surprise.

Now, which way should I go here? I may have to take a wild stab in the dark…

fuente ano 1917. The fountain still provided fresh drinking water almost 100 years later. Looked fantastic.

I stopped here as other pilgrims had done the same. I was curious. What was going on?

The building is an old church in desperate need of restoration. It was managed by a soft-spoken, storytelling Irishman. Yes, I know. Irish storytellers are almost a cliché.

Anyway, the Irishman told us pilgrims about an old and fit gentleman who arrived walking the Camino with no money. He declined offers of money but he accepted food. He stayed at the church for several days. And yes, I almost forgot, he was from Melbourne, Australia and he was 85 years old. Small world.

I arrived at Larrasoaña after 11am despite taking my time.

It was nice to start late, go slow, look around a bit more, take my time, listening to some music. Today’s artist selection was Thomas Newman soundtracks for atmosphere.

The name of tonight’s albergue is San Nicolás.

There was a strong smell of dope hitting my nose as I approached the albergue along the Main Street. Hmm….

The albergue’s business hours were from 12pm, but no problem when I buzzed the intercom at 12.15pm. After bed allocation, a shower and a load of machine washing for 3€ followed. Pretty much everything I carried ended up washed.

Note to self: I can get away with using the same shirt for 2 days in a row but it stinks the 3rd day.

There is a mini mercado almost opposite the albergue. I had my lunch there. It was a microwave heated can of ravioli (simple food is a poor pilgrim’s lot. Where is Good Mrs when you need her…?) followed with an espresso which was actually half decent. A total of 5.15€.

Dinner will yet again be “Menú del peregrino“. I will reach Pamplona tomorrow and stay a full day there. I intend to eat much better for those 2 days.

There are some odd pilgrims. There is a South Korean woman with dirt poor English staying at the albergue. That doesn’t prevent her from yapping away in Korean English. What I figured from her is that:

  • she made up a name for the Camino which is “Sonia”
  • it has taken her 9 days to get this far (it took me 3 days including today’s short 5km walk)
  • she arrived in Zubiri last night at 9pm.

I didn’t even want to know, never mind ask, why it had taken her so long.

Another United Nations “conference” in the late afternoon followed. In other words, chatting with pilgrims from several corners of the world. Lots of laughs, lots of beer.

This “menú del Peregrino” was really good. A vegetable soup not from a can. 3 pan fried pork cutlets and a sponge cake. All washed down with an excellent Rioja wine. Well worth the 10€.

In fact, bed and dinner was a total of 21€. Best value so far.

53km walked, 732km left to walk after Day 3

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